Yala Nationalpark

Ein guter Ausgangspunkt für eine Safari im Yala Nationalpark ist Tissamaharama. Morgens um 4.30 Uhr wurden wir bereits von einem Jeep abgeholt. Während der Fahrer, der gleichzeitig der Guide ist, in einem ganz normalen Fahrerhäuschen sitzt wurden auf der Ladefläche Autositze montiert. Ein Dach schützt diese vor der Sonne, ansonsten sitzt man praktisch im Freien. Wir hatten alle 7 vorhandenen Plätze für uns allein und damit immer die Möglichkeit, auf die richtig Seite zu wechseln - dorthin wo es etwas zu sehen gab.



Am Park angekommen mussten wir noch einige Zeit vor verschlossenen Toren warten, da diese aufgrund der Gefahr bei Dunkelheit erst um 6.00 Uhr öffnen. Allerdings waren wir dadurch auch unter den ersten Jeeps und hatten riesiges Glück: gleich nach der ersten Weggabelung sahen wir einen Leoparden. Der Nationalpark ist zwar berühmt für diese Tiere, allerdings sieht man sie trotzdem ausgesprochen selten, sodass auch die Fahrer begeistert ihre Handys zückten um Beweisfotos zu schießen. Schnell hatte sich per Telefon herumgesprochen wo die wunderschöne Attraktion sich aufhält und ein halbes Dutzend anderer Wägen rollte leise an. Doch während der kompletten 15 Minuten, in denen der Leopard gemütlich auf einem Stein lag, ab und zu gähnte und ansonsten die Ruhe selbst war, hatten wir nur wenige Meter entfernt die beste Sicht auf ihn. Perfekt wurde das Erlebnis durch den zweiten Leoparden, der anmutig die Schotterpiste vor uns überquerte und im gegenüberliegenden Gestrüpp verschwand. Unser Fahrer erklärte mit liebevoller und stolzer Stimme, dass die beiden 10 Monate alte Jungtiere seien, deren Mutter sich toll um diese kümmert und gerade jagen sei.



Auf unserer 5 stündigen Safari sahen wir zudem noch jede Menge weitere interessante Tiere in freier Wildbahn. Wir beobachteten z.B. einsame Elefantenbullen beim Fressen, wie sie mit einer gekonnten Bewegung von Rüssel und Vorderfuß das nahrhafte Gras vom trockenen Sand trennten. Besonders schnell ist diese Technik aber nicht, sodass sie um auf die benötigten 200-250 kg zu kommen wohl den ganzen Tag nichts anderes tun ... Außerdem sahen wir mehrmals Elefanten Mütter mit ihren Kälbern, einmal sogar beim Baden in einem kleinen See. Man konnte den Kleinen den Spaß am Planschen richtig ansehen, absolut süß.



Ansonsten entdeckten wir jede Menge Wasserbüffel, Affen, Rehe und Wildschweine sowie Krokodile und die verschiedensten, teilweise ungewöhnlichen Vogelarten. Es gab neben unzähligen Pfauen z.B. auch bunte Störche oder den grünen Bienenfresser (diesen haben wir so oft gesehen, dass wir uns den Namen merken konnten. Für den Rest müsste man vermutlich Ornithologe sein ...).



Einzig der kleine schwarze Lippenbär ließ uns vergeblich warten. Unser Fahrer kannte zwar seine morgendliche Route, doch an diesem Tag kam er einfach nicht ... aber nachdem wir das Highlight bereits zu Beginn der Safari gesehen hatten, waren wir rundum zufrieden. Es war auch nicht so viel los, wie alle immer über den beliebten Nationalpark behaupten. Sicher waren da auch einige andere Jeeps, gerade wo es große Tiere zu sehen gab informierten sich die Fahrer gegenseitig um allen Besuchern ein schönes Erlebnis zu ermöglichen. Doch die meiste Zeit waren wir allein unterwegs und der Parkabschnitt der für die Safari genutzt wird ist wirklich groß genug, sodass keine Staus entstehen. Zudem hatten wir bei keinem Tier das Gefühl, dass es sich gestört fühlte. Zum einen weil die Wägen weit genug weg waren, zum anderen weil die Fahrer ihre Motoren ausstellten und sehr respektvoll den Tieren gegenüber handelten. Wir können jedem, der nach Sri Lanka fahren möchte eine Safari nur wärmstens empfehlen.


Nachmittags machten wir trotz gnadenloser Hitze eine kleine Fahrradtour zum Tissa Wewa (See). Die Strecke auf kleinen Feldwegen und durch die Natur war sehr angenehm und auch der See selbst sieht wunderschön aus. Doch dort hatten wir dann ein beklommenes Gefühl: der Gastgeber unseres Hotels hatte uns vorher die tragische Geschichte seines Schwiegervaters erzählt, der beim Baden in eben diesem See von einem Krokodil getötet wurde. Trotzdem waren sehr viele Einheimische im Wasser ... ob sie sich der Gefahr bewusst waren wissen wir nicht. Aber so blieben wir nicht allzu lange und machten uns auf den Rückweg.


Und noch ein bisschen Werbung, oder besser gesagt ein absoluter Geheimtipp: Ariya Tissa, unsere Unterkunft. Wir fühlten uns hier so wohl, wie noch nie zuvor in einem Hotel. Der Besitzer ist der perfekte Gastgeber, strahlt immer von einem Ohr zum anderen und verwöhnt einen wo er nur kann mit frischem Obst und Fruchtshakes sowie selbstgemachten Gesundheitstees. Außerdem ist er ein fantastischer Koch und hat sogar 4,5 Jahre als solcher im Konsulat in Australien gearbeitet. Selbst morgens um 4.00 Uhr hat er uns ein liebevolles Frühstück zum mitnehmen zubereitet ... Er bietet in Tissa nur 2 Zimmer an, was den Aufenthalt sehr persönlich macht. Er putzte sogar unsere Schuhe mit einer Zahnbürste und zahlte von seinem Trinkgeld unser Tuk Tuk zum Busbahnhof!!!

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