Tangalle & Unawatuna

Bei der Vielzahl an Badeorten an der Südküste von Sri Lanka fällt die Auswahl nicht leicht. Wir entschieden uns zunächst für das ruhige Tangalle und danach das aufgeweckte Unawatuna.

Genauer gesagt waren wir nicht mal in Tangalle selbst, sondern etwa 15 Tuk Tuk - Minuten entfernt in einer kleinen Unterkunft mit vier Hüttchen in der Nähe vom Strand. Dieser war dementsprechend unberührt und einsam. Kilometerweit reichte der weiße Sand, sodass sich uns eine bilderbuchartige Kulisse bot. Diese genossen wir bei einem ausgiebigen Strandspaziergang, bei dem wir keiner Menschenseele begegneten. Leider machten die hohen Wellen und starken Unterströmungen das Baden im Meer zu gefährlich. Doch glücklicherweise gab es eine Art natürlichen Pool, also eine geschlossene Riff-/Felsformation, die einen geschützten Badebereich schuf. Hier konnten wir bedenkenlos das erste Mal im indischen Ozean schwimmen.





Ursprünglich wollten wir auch noch das nahegelegene Schildkröten-Schutz-Projekt besuchen. Allerdings informierten wir uns vorher und wurden von den Erzählungen im Internet abgeschreckt. Zwar kann man hier tatsächlich jeden Abend Meeresschildkröten bei der Eiablage beobachten, doch wirkt es so, als versuchten die Verantwortlichen vor allem Profit daraus zu schlagen. Angeblich warten täglich bis zu 80 Neugierige (die jeweils 1.000 LKR = 5 € zahlen) darauf dieses Spektakel mitzuerleben und verfolgen die Schildkröte dann bis zurück zum Wasser ... das hört sich nicht sehr tierfreundlich an. Wir machten uns deshalb mit Taschenlampen bewaffnet selbst auf die Suche, fanden aber nur tausende kleine und große Krebse, die das Laufen am Strand (bei Dunkelheit!!) ungemein erschwerten. So gaben wir schnell auf - sollten aber schon bald anderswo eine Schildkröte sehen 😉


Weiter ging es nach Unawatuna. Dieser Ort scheint vor allem bei Briten ein sehr beliebtes Urlaubsziel zu sein - die trifft man hier wirklich überall. Da unser Hotel an einer großen Bundesstraße mit viel Verkehr lag, gefiel uns Unawatuna selbst zunächst nicht so gut. Doch auf der Suche nach einem guten Frühstück entdeckten wir auch die schmaleren ruhigeren Nebenstraßen, auf denen man zumindest nur Tuk Tuks ausweichen muss. Hier wirkte alles ganz nett und wir fanden ein sympathisches kleines französisches Café, in dem man sogar den Kaffee trinken konnte!! (in Sri Lanka bedeutet Kaffee normalerweise nur mit heißem Wasser aufgegossener Satz. An sich nicht schlimm, so macht man es in Bali auch ... nur hier rühren sie das Pulver dann noch um, sodass man das Gefühl hat Erde mitzutrinken - aber das frühere Ceylon ist ja auch nicht bekannt für seinen hervorragenden Kaffee, sondern Tee. Selbst Schuld also, wer sich das falsche Heißgetränk bestellt)




Wir erkundeten ein wenig die Gegend. So besuchten wir den über 2000 Jahre alten Tempel Yatagala Raja Maha Viharaya mit dem ebenso alten heiligen Baum, welcher als „Senior“ aber inzwischen Stützpfeiler für die schweren Äste benötigt. Ansonsten sind die weiße Stupa und der stehende Buddha recht fotogen, während in dem Gebäude selbst schöne Wandmalereien und von Japanern gespendete Fliesen zu bewundern sind. Hier kamen wir auch endlich dahinter, wieso in den buddhistischen Tempeln oft auch hinduistische Götter zu finden sind: ein früherer König heiratete eine Inderin, die dementsprechend dem Hinduismus zugetan war. So entstanden Tempel wie dieser, in denen beide am selben Ort zu den jeweiligen Göttern beten konnten.





Außerdem fuhren wir auf den Rumassala Hügel, zu dem es eine nette Sage gibt: der Affengott wurde beauftragt ein ganz bestimmtes Heilmittel aus Indien zu besorgen. Dummerweise vergaß er den Namen und brachte deshalb einen ganzen Berg von Kräutern mit. Davon fiel einiges auf dem Hügel zu Boden, weshalb auch heute noch viele Heilkräuter dort, nicht aber in der näheren Umgebung zu finden sind. Zudem genießt man hier eine wunderbare Aussicht auf die Küste und bis nach Galle (die nächst größere Stadt). Auf dem Hügel schauten wir uns noch die Sama Cetiya, die Friedenspagode an und daneben den Gedenkstein für die Opfer des Tsunamis.



Unsere restliche Zeit verbrachten wir am Strand. Der Unawatuna Beach ist sehr weitläufig und breit, dadurch aber auch sehr populär. Zudem sind viele Bettler und Verkäufer unterwegs. Einer davon erzählt z.B. jeden Tag aufs Neue seine Tochter müsste morgen operiert werden ... Allerdings muss man dem Strand zugute halten, dass man hier ins Wasser kann. Außerdem hat man Abends eine große Auswahl an Restaurants direkt am Meer, die natürlich überwiegend frischen Fisch und Seafood anbieten.



Der Wijaya Beach hat uns noch besser gefallen. Die Bucht hat eine überschaubare Größe und sieht durch die säumenden Palmen zusätzlich einfach traumhaft aus. Ein vorgelagertes Riff bildet eine Art riesige Badewanne - auch was die Wassertemperatur betrifft. Nachmittags mit der Flut werden regelmäßig große Meeresschildkröten über diese Abgrenzung „gespült“. Wir hatten das große Glück gleich mehrmals mit einer von ihnen schwimmen bzw. schnorcheln zu können. Leider verstehen viele andere Urlauber nicht, dass diese Tiere nichts gegen herumtreibende Begleiter haben und sich dadurch nicht aus der Ruhe bringen lassen, sehr wohl aber Probleme mit einengendem Verhalten und aufdringlich Anfassen. Einer war sogar so dreist sich am Panzer der Schildkröte festzuhalten um sich von ihr ziehen zu lassen ... zum Glück wissen die Schildkröten die Strömung für sich zu nutzen und schwimmen nur einmal kurz dorthin um ihre Verfolger abzuschütteln, die dann erst mal alle Kraft die sie haben aufwenden müssen um wieder heraus zu kommen...





Noch eine kleine Geschichte nebenbei: wir haben natürlich keine Klamotten für die volle Reisezeit dabei - unsere Rucksäcke sind sowieso schon schwer genug. Allerdings stellte sich das Waschen hier als gar nicht so leicht heraus, wie überall sonst in Asien. Man verlangte so unverschämt viel, dass wir unsere Sachen deshalb kurzerhand im Zimmer per Hand wuschen. Ärgerlich.

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