Kulturelles Dreieck

Diese Gegend im Herzen Sri Lankas wird aufgrund der Vielzahl an antiken Überbleibseln aus der früheren Zeit kulturelles Dreieck genannt. Wir entschieden uns dazu, uns kulturschockartig im Rahmen eines Tagesausflugs von Kandy aus drei der wichtigsten Orte anzusehen: Dambulla, Pollonaruwa und Sigiriya. Wir hatten also viel vor und starteten deshalb bereits um 7 Uhr morgens mit einem privaten Fahrer.

Dambulla ist bekannt für seine Felsenhöhlen, Dambulla Raja Maha Vihara, übrigens ein Unesco-Weltkulrurerbe. Am Eingang zur buddhistischen Tempelanlage ragt ein großer, goldener Buddha auf. Daneben steht ein heiliger Baum. Hiervon gibt es einige in Sri Lanka. Man kann sie anhand ihrer Ummauerung und dem bunten Tücher-Schmuck erkennen.


Zu den eigentlichen Grotten geht es einige Treppen steil hinauf. Es existieren insgesamt fünf nebeneinander liegende, aber nicht miteinander verbundene Höhlen. Darin befindet sich z.B. ein großer liegender Buddha, der fast die komplette erste Höhle ausfüllt. Die restlichen Grotten sind mit schönen Wandmalereien verziert und beinhalten allerlei Statuen und Stupas. Leider boten die Felsenhöhlen nicht wie erwartet kühlende Erfrischung - ganz im Gegenteil war es sehr stickig, sodass nicht nur die Frauen (Schultern und Beine müssen an religiösen Orten bedeckt sein, deshalb tragen viele lange Hosen, Tücher oder Sweatshirts), sondern auch die Männer schweißgebadet herauskamen. Die 36 Grad Außentemperatur erschienen daher kurzzeitig (!!) geradezu angenehm. Da der Hof vor den Grotten sehr hübsch gestaltet ist, kann man sich hier zum Glück gut aufhalten, wenn man eine Abkühlung von der meditativen Atmosphäre im Inneren braucht. Mit etwas Fantasie sieht sogar der Felsen ein bisschen aus wie ein liegender Buddha ...





Pollonaruwa sollte zu Beginn eine kleine Herausforderung werden, da unser Fahrer sich in der Stadt offenbar nicht auskannte. Er brachte uns zu einer in Stein gemetzelten Statue und einer abgelegenen Ruine und vermittelte uns danach, dass es das gewesen sei. Wir hatten uns aber vorher informiert und wussten, dass da irgendwo eine ganze Ruinen-Stadt sein musste. Und nach einiger Zeit hatten wir diese „Sacred City“ dann auch gefunden. Bei brennender Hitze erkundeten wir die teilweise gut erhaltenen Tempelanlagen - stellenweise sind aber auch nur noch einzelne Stützpfeiler übrig. Besonders beeindruckt hat uns eine riesige Stupa, Rankot Vihara (laut Reiseführer 55m) - so groß wie wir es noch nie zuvor gesehen haben. Außerdem gibt es auch hier eine Terrasse der Zahnreliquie, wobei besonders das runde Reliquienhaus Vatadage ins Auge sticht - was es mit diesem Zahn auf sich hat wissen wir aber nicht. Auch die in Stein geschlagenen Buddhas von Gal Vihara haben uns gut gefallen. Neben der unfassbaren Hitze war das einzige „Problem“ der Wettlauf mit den Einheimischen, die an diesem Tag scheinbar alle ihre heiligen Stätten besuchen wollten. Ab einem gewissen Zeitpunkt versuchten wir deshalb vor allem, schneller zu sein als die vielen weiß gekleideten Gläubigen (das hat uns sehr an die Invasion der roten Schulkinder in Thailand erinnert ...).





Auf dem Weg nach Sigiriya fuhren wir zunächst auf einer normalen Landstraße durch den Minneryia Nationalpark und hielten bei jeder kleinen Lücke zwischen den dichten Bäumen Ausschau nach Elefanten, die hier sehr häufig vorkommen. Leider ohne Erfolg ... Danach ging es auf einer abgelegenen und sehr schmalen Straße weiter. Eigentlich nichts besonders erwähnenswertes, aber unser Fahrer teilte uns mit, dass man diese Strecke nachts nicht benutzen könne weil dann hordenweise wilde und aggressive Elefanten unterwegs wären. Eine aufregende Vorstellung. Wir freuen uns schon so auf unsere Safari!!!

Nach einiger Zeit erreichten wir Sigiriya, genauer gesagt den berühmten Löwenfelsen, Simha Giri. Diese Bergfeste wurde nach einem königlichen Familiendrama ca. 500 n. Chr. aus Sicherheitsgründen errichtet. Zwar ist der Eintritt mit 30 US-Dollar alles andere als billig und kommt einem in Sri Lanka Rupien sogar noch viel mehr vor (~ 10.000 LKR) ... doch uns persönlich hat dieser Ort ausgesprochen gut gefallen und war das Geld wert. Vielleicht auch weil wir dank unserer Tagestour erst nachmittags da waren und damit nicht mit den restlichen Besuchermassen, die hier jeden Tag aufschlagen. Zunächst läuft man durch die weitläufige Parkanlage auf den aus dem nichts aufragenden 200 Meter hohen Berg zu. Dann geht es einige Treppen hinauf bis man an der ersten Sehenswürdigkeit ankommt - den berühmten Wolkenmädchen, denen eine besonders erotische Ausstrahlung zugesprochen wird, da sie oben ohne posieren. Die Wandmalereien dürfen allerdings nicht mehr fotografiert werden, seit das Blitzen Überhand genommen hat und die Betreiber Angst um die Farbintensität bekamen. Bei Verstößen droht angeblich sogar eine Gefängnisstrafe - also nichts was man riskieren sollte. Etwas weiter folgt die Spiegelgalerie, auf der über 800 Kritzeleien und Gedichte zu sehen sein sollen. Zu unserer Schande müssen wir gestehen, dass wir die eigentlich relevante Seite gar nicht bemerkten, weil die Felsen gegenüber so toll aussahen (*ups*). Noch weiter oben gelangt man zur Löwenprankenterasse. Die beiden Pfoten sind die Überreste eines einst prachtvollen Löwenaufgangs. Erklimmt man dann auch noch die letzten steilen Stufen kann man ganz oben im ehemaligen Palastkomplex spazieren gehen und einen atemberaubenden Rundumblick über die Natur genießen. Hätten wir noch mehr Zeit gehabt, hätten wir gerne auch noch den gegenüberliegenden Berg bestiegen, von dem aus man den Löwenfels sehen kann. Vielleicht nächstes Mal ...






Nach einem langen Tag kamen wir gegen 20 Uhr müde aber voller interessanter Eindrücke in unserem Hotel am Rand des Kandy Lakes an.

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    Bin schon sehr gespannt auf eure weitere Reise, den Süden und natürlich auf die Safari Bilder!!!
    Viel Spaß noch!!

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